En Route to Badami
Date: 25-Sep-15
Our much-awaited Badami–Bijapur trip finally began at 4 AM on a cool September morning. With an ambitious three-day itinerary ahead of us, all four of us squeezed into our little Nano and set off towards Badami, our first destination in the historic heartland of North Karnataka.
The roads were almost empty at that hour, allowing us to make excellent progress. Following the route through Nelamangala and Tumkur on AH47, we reached Hiriyur by around 6:30 AM, much earlier than expected. Our original plan was to have breakfast at Hiriyur around 7 AM, but most restaurants were yet to open. Instead, we continued towards Chitradurga, hoping to find something on the way. We remembered spotting a VRL restaurant during our Chitradurga trip a few months earlier and decided to try our luck there.
At around 7 AM, we reached the restaurant. The place was almost deserted, with only a handful of people inside. For a moment, we wondered if breakfast would even be available. Fortunately, we managed to get some food, finished our meal, and resumed the journey at 7:30 AM. One thing we noticed during this drive was the limited number of family-friendly restaurants along the highway despite the excellent road conditions.
Up to Chitradurga, the drive had been smooth and enjoyable. However, things changed dramatically once we left the highway and took the road towards Hospet. The next hundred kilometers turned out to be the least enjoyable part of the journey. The road was narrow, riddled with potholes, and crowded with heavy trucks. The weather was hot, villages were sparse, and progress was slow. Yet, nature found a way to compensate. Vast green fields and bright sunflower plantations lined the route, adding bursts of color to an otherwise tiring drive. These beautiful rural landscapes provided welcome relief from the endless procession of trucks.
A surprise by the Tungabhadra
As we approached Hospet, industries began appearing along the roadside. Just when we thought the drive had become completely ordinary, we were greeted by an unexpected spectacle. On one side of the road stretched an enormous water body that looked almost like an inland sea. It was the vast backwaters of the Tungabhadra Dam.
The sight was magnificent. The reservoir extended as far as the eye could see and instantly transformed our mood. Even better, the road beyond this point widened into a smooth expressway, helping us recover the time we had lost earlier.
Through the quiet countryside
After driving for about 65 kilometers, we reached Kushtagi and took a right turn. From here onward, the road became single lane once again, but unlike the earlier stretch, there was hardly any traffic. The drive suddenly became peaceful.
Greenery surrounded us on both sides, and the calm rural landscape made the journey extremely pleasant. Around 25 kilometers later, we arrived at Gajendragad, one of the prominent towns in Gadag district. What immediately caught our attention was the long hill range overlooking the town. Perched atop one of the hills stood a majestic fort, creating a striking silhouette against the sky. Though we were tempted to explore it, our packed itinerary left no room for detours.
Towards the land of the Chalukyas
About 11 kilometers beyond Gajendragad, we turned towards Bevinakatti. From there, Badami was only 30 kilometers away. The road quality deteriorated once again, but the surroundings made up for it. Vast agricultural lands stretched endlessly on both sides, and the villages felt noticeably different from those around Bangalore.
The architecture, culture, and rhythm of life carried a distinct North Karnataka flavor. Experiencing these subtle regional differences became one of the most memorable parts of the drive for both Thilak and me.
Arrival at Badami
At around 12:30 PM, we finally rolled into Badami and checked into Hotel Mayura Chalukya at 12:45 PM. Being a KSTDC property, I had expected a better experience. Unfortunately, the rooms fell short of our expectations and felt quite ordinary. However, there was no time to dwell on it.
Our schedule for the next three days was packed to the brim. After quickly freshening up and having lunch at a nearby restaurant, we immediately set out to explore the magnificent monuments of Badami. The heritage adventure we had spent weeks planning had finally begun.
Travel snapshot
- Route Travelled: BTM Layout > Tumkur > Chitradurga > Hospet > Kushtagi > Gajendragad > Bevinakatti > Badami
- Total distance (one way): 480 km
- Mileage (car): 20 km/l
- Journey time (Excluding 45 mins break): 8 hrs
Toll expenses
| Toll Plaza Name | Fee (Single journey, Car) |
| Bangalore – Nelamangala | 20 |
| Kulumepalya (Nelamangala – Tumkur) | 34 (including next toll of 17 Rs) |
| Karjeevanahalli (Tumkur – Chitradurga) | 70 |
| Guilalu (Tumkur – Chitradurga) | 55 |
| Hitnal (Hungund – Hospet) | 35 |
| Shahapur (Hungund – Hospet) | 45 |
| Total | 259 |
Tips:
- There are not many family restaurants in this route. Plan accordingly. Either carry food or make a note of the exact location of the few restaurants. Few good hotels that we noticed are: Kamat Upachar at Sira, Atithya Midway Plaza at Hiriyur, VRL hotel at Chitradurga.
- Carry enough water as the weather is very hot in these places.
See also:
- Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Bijapur Trip – Planning
- Day 1 – Badami and Mahakoota
- Day 2 – Aihole, Pattadakal, and Alamatti
- Day 3 – Bijapur and Kudala Sangama