Day 2 – Aihole, Pattadakal, and Alamatti

Date: 26-Sep-15

Our second day of the Badami–Bijapur trip began with uncertainty. A Karnataka bandh had been announced for 26 September, and reports suggested that the impact would be particularly severe across North Karnataka, where we were traveling. Naturally, we were concerned about our sightseeing plans.

Fortunately, the authorities at the Badami Cave Temples had assured us the previous day that all monuments would remain open from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM. They also advised us to complete our visits as early as possible, as vehicle movement might be restricted after 11:00 AM. Adding to our relief, the owner of Banashri Hotel, where we had dinner the previous night, confirmed that breakfast would be available from 6:00 AM to 9:00 AM. With that reassurance, we decided to start our day early.

Pattadakal group of monuments

• Opening hours of Pattadakal group of monuments: 6 AM to 6 PM
• Entry fee at Pattadakal group of monuments: 10 Rs/person for Indians, 250 Rs for foreigners, 25 Rs for video camera

As planned, we checked out of our hotel at 6:30 AM, had breakfast at Banashri Hotel, and began our day’s journey. Our first destination was Pattadakal, located approximately 22 km from Badami. Among all the places on this itinerary, Pattadakal had generated the most excitement for me. The photographs I had seen while planning the trip were captivating, and I was eager to experience the site in person.

The road from Badami to Pattadakal is narrow and not particularly well maintained. However, the moment we entered the monument complex, those concerns disappeared. The beautifully landscaped grounds and the magnificent temples immediately captured our attention.

Pattadakal is one of India’s designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites. During the reign of the Badami Chalukyas, it served as the ceremonial site where kings were crowned. Most of the temples here were constructed during the 7th and 8th centuries. Situated on the left bank of the Malaprabha River, the complex contains 10 temples, including a Jain sanctuary. The monuments showcase a remarkable blend of architectural styles, including Dravidian (Southern), Nagara (Northern), and Rekha traditions.

Major temples at Pattadakal

The temples in Pattadakal temple complex are: Virupaksha Temple, Sangameshvara Temple, Chandrashekhara temple, Mallikarjuna Temple, Kashivisvanatha Temple, Galaganatha temple, Kadasiddhesvara temple, Jambulingeswara temple, Jain temple and Papanatha temple.

Every structure in the complex is impressive in its own way. The Virupaksha Temple is the largest and most elaborate, while the Sangameshvara Temple is considered the oldest. The Kashivisvanatha Temple, built in the Nagara style, features a particularly striking tower and is often regarded as one of the architectural highlights of the site. The entire complex is an extraordinary showcase of Chalukyan craftsmanship, and we could easily have spent much longer exploring it. However, our schedule was tight, and we had to move on.

At around 9:00 AM, we left Pattadakal and headed toward Aihole.

Aihole

• Opening hours of Aihole temples: 6 AM to 6 PM
• Entry fee at Aihole (Durga Temple complex): 5 Rs/person

Located approximately 13 km from Pattadakal, Aihole is often referred to as the cradle of Chalukyan architecture. Unlike Pattadakal, where the monuments are concentrated within a single complex, Aihole’s temples are scattered across the village. Before visiting, we had read that Aihole contains nearly 125 ancient temples, so we anticipated spending considerable time here.

What saddened us, however, was the condition of the village. Despite its immense historical significance, Aihole appeared underdeveloped, and many roads leading to the monuments were in poor condition. It felt unfortunate that such important heritage sites were not receiving the attention they deserved.

Mallikarjuna Temple complex

Our first stop in Aihole was the Mallikarjuna Temple Complex. The temple complex is spacious yet simple in design. The peaceful atmosphere made it an ideal place to spend some quiet time. From here, we could clearly see the famous Buddhist Chaitya perched atop a nearby hill.

This two-storeyed structure looks particularly impressive from the temple grounds and can be reached by climbing approximately 100 steps. We spent some time relaxing inside the temple before continuing our exploration.

Durga Temple

The most famous monument in Aihole is undoubtedly the Durga Temple. The temple complex is large and beautifully maintained. Within the same complex are several other important monuments, including the famous Lad Khan Temple.

Built during the 7th–8th centuries by the Chalukyas, the Durga Temple is unique in both design and history. Contrary to what its name suggests, the temple is not dedicated to Goddess Durga. The name is believed to have originated from the Kannada word “Durga,” meaning fort or fortress.

The temple is dedicated either to Lord Shiva or Lord Vishnu and features a fascinating combination of Dravidian and Nagara architectural styles. The pillared corridor surrounding the structure enhances its grandeur, while intricate carvings adorn both the walls and ceilings. Every section of the temple reflects the remarkable artistic and engineering capabilities of the Chalukyan era.

Lad Khan Temple

Located just south of the Durga Temple, the Lad Khan Temple is another architectural gem dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple derives its name from a man named Lad Khan, who is believed to have used the structure as his residence for a brief period. Built in the Panchayatana style, it is considered one of the oldest temples in Aihole.

Like the Durga Temple, it showcases exceptional craftsmanship and historical significance. After spending some time exploring the complex, we left around 10:30 AM.

Huchimalli Temple and Ravana Phadi Cave Temple

On our way out of Aihole, we visited the Huchimalli Temple and the nearby Ravana Phadi Cave Temple. The cave temple is one of Aihole’s finest rock-cut monuments and features remarkable carvings of dancing Shiva. Interestingly, its sanctum is larger than those found in the Badami Cave Temples.

After exploring these final attractions, we bid farewell to Bagalkot district and began our journey toward Bijapur.

Unexpected delay due to the Karnataka bandh

By this point, we were delighted that our sightseeing plans had remained unaffected despite the bandh. We had successfully covered both Pattadakal and Aihole exactly as planned. Unfortunately, our luck did not last.

Just 20 km before reaching the Bijapur highway, our vehicle was stopped near a village called Chittalagi, where local protesters had blocked the road. Initially, we assumed the disruption would last only a short while. However, we were informed that the road might remain closed until 6:00 PM. At that moment, it was only 1:00 PM. Under the scorching afternoon sun, we had little choice but to wait. Fortunately, we had packed food from our breakfast stop and were able to have lunch while sitting in the car. My father-in-law took the initiative to speak with the protest organizers. After considerable discussion, they finally agreed to reopen the road by 4:00 PM. By then, a long queue of vehicles had accumulated on both sides.

As promised, the road was reopened at 4:00 PM, but we had lost nearly three to three-and-a-half hours.

Alamatti dam

• Entry fee at Alamatti Dam: 20 Rs/person

ecause of the delay, we revised our itinerary. Originally, we had planned to visit one attraction in Bijapur that evening. Since it was already 4:00 PM, reaching Bijapur before 6:30 PM was unlikely. Instead, we decided to visit Alamatti Dam, one of Karnataka’s major dam projects built across the Krishna River, before continuing to Bijapur. After joining NH13 (Solapur–Mangalore Highway), we covered approximately 35 km and took a diversion toward Alamatti.

Before entering the dam complex, we drove an additional 3 km to visit the Krishna River Bridge. The combination of the broad river, the expansive bridge, the highway on one side, and the massive dam on the other created a spectacular panorama. After spending some time there, we proceeded toward the dam.

The approach road beyond the entrance gate was beautifully developed and featured seven landscaped gardens. The grand entrance plaza of Alamatti Dam was particularly impressive. A musical fountain park is also located within the complex, though it was not operational during our visit.

Unfortunately, public access to the main dam structure, also known as the Lal Bahadur Shastri Dam, was restricted. Access to the reservoir area was also limited. Nevertheless, we managed to get a glimpse of the enormous dam, and the vast backwaters resembled an inland sea. While leaving, we considered visiting one of the gardens, but by then it was already 6:00 PM, and entry had been closed for the day.

After having evening snacks at an Udupi restaurant near the entrance arch, we resumed our journey to Bijapur.

Arrival at Bijapur

We reached Bijapur at around 8:00 PM. Along the way, we caught our first glimpse of the massive dome of the famous Gol Gumbaz. We checked into Hotel Pleasant Stay at approximately 8:30 PM. The hotel was comfortable, clean, and offered good value for money.

After dinner at the hotel, we retired for the night, satisfied that despite the unexpected bandh-related delay, we had successfully covered the major attractions of Pattadakal, Aihole, and Alamatti.

Toll expenses

Toll Plaza Name	Fee (Single journey, Car)
Nagarhalla (Bijapur – Hungund)	80
Kasaba (Bijapur) (Bijapur – Hungund)	50
Total	130

• Route Traveled: Badami > Pattadakal > Mallikarjuna Temple complex (Aihole) > Durga Temple & Lad Khan temple complex > Huchimalli Temple > Ravana Phadi cave temple > Alamatti > Bijapur

See also:

• Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Bijapur Trip
• Enroute to Badami
• Day 1 – Badami and Mahakoota
• Day 3 – Bijapur and Kudala Sangama