Day 1 – Badami and Mahakoota

Date: 25-Sep-15

One of the main reasons we were so excited about this trip was the remarkable history that Badami holds. Formerly known as Vathapi, Badami served as the capital of the Badami Chalukyas between 540 and 757 AD. The dynasty was founded by Pulakeshin I (535–566 AD), while his son Kirtivarma I (567–598 AD) and brother Mangalesha (598–610 AD) played a significant role in the construction of the famous cave temples.

Among the Chalukya rulers, Pulakeshin II (610–642 AD) stands out as the most powerful king. He successfully defeated several rulers, including the Pallavas of Kanchipuram. Over the centuries, Badami witnessed numerous battles involving the Chalukyas, Pallavas, and Rashtrakutas. Later, it came under the rule of the Vijayanagara Empire, the Adil Shahis, the Savanur Nawabs, the Marathas, Hyder Ali, and eventually the British, who incorporated it into the Bombay Presidency.

Badami cave temples

• Opening hours of all temples at Badami: 6 AM to 6 PM
• Entry fee at Badami Cave Temples: 5 Rs/person for Indians, 100 Rs for foreigners, 25 Rs for video camera.
• Parking fee at Badami cave temples: 20 Rs
• Parking fee and Entrance fee at other temples: None
• Opening hrs of Archaelogical Museum: 10 A M to 5 PM (closed on Fridays)
• Archaelogical Museum Entrance fee: 2 Rs/person

Isn’t it fascinating to stand before monuments that have survived for nearly 1,500 years? The temples we were about to explore were built between the 6th and 8th centuries, and the thought itself filled us with excitement. Our first destination was the famous Badami Cave Temples. Unfortunately, the route suggested by Google Maps led us through some of the less-developed parts of town. It was disheartening to see the condition of the surroundings in such a historically significant destination. Thankfully, the monuments themselves have been preserved remarkably well.

Near the parking area stands the elegant Killa Masjid, offering a glimpse into another chapter of Badami’s rich history. Beyond it rise the magnificent red sandstone cliffs that house the famous cave temples. Carved directly into the rock face, these caves are considered masterpieces of Indian rock-cut architecture. The four cave temples are connected by a stepped pathway. As we climbed higher, the views of Badami town, Agasthya Lake, and the surrounding monuments became increasingly spectacular.

The first cave is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is renowned for its magnificent sculpture of Nataraja with eighteen arms. It is said that any combination of two arms forms a perfect classical dance pose. The cave is adorned with intricate carvings on its walls and ceilings, making it an architectural treasure.

After climbing around sixty steps, we reached the second cave dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Here, Vishnu is depicted as Trivikrama, with one foot on the earth and the other reaching toward the heavens. The Varaha avatar is another highlight of this cave. Another sixty-step climb brought us to the third cave, the largest and most impressive of the four. Dedicated once again to Lord Vishnu, it features grand sculptures of Trivikrama and Varaha. The panoramic views of Badami town and Agasthya Lake from this level were breathtaking.

A few more steps led us to the fourth and final cave, dedicated to Mahavira. Constructed later than the others, this Jain cave is comparatively simpler but still significant. An ancient Kannada inscription dating back to the 12th century can be found here.

Agasthya Lake, Mallikarjuna Temple, and Bhoothanatha Temple

Located beside the cave temples, Agasthya Lake forms the heart of Badami’s historic landscape. Across its waters stands the beautiful Bhoothanatha Temple, one of the most photographed landmarks in the town. The road leading to the lake was surprisingly narrow. Near the parking area, we noticed the Archaeological Museum, but unfortunately, it was closed as it was a Friday.

On our way to Bhoothanatha Temple, we stopped at the beautiful Mallikarjuna Temple Complex. Its distinctive stepped, pyramid-like architecture immediately caught our attention.

The Bhoothanatha Temple itself turned out to be the most peaceful place we visited in Badami. While the temple may not have elaborate sculptures, its setting is extraordinary. Surrounded by the lake, towering sandstone cliffs, and the cave temples above, it offers a sense of serenity that is difficult to describe. The afternoon sun was intense, so we spent nearly an hour sitting by the temple and simply soaking in the scenery.

Many travel blogs recommend visiting Bhoothanatha Temple during sunset, when the red sandstone cliffs glow beautifully in the evening light. We considered waiting, but it was only 4:30 PM, and sitting idle for another hour didn’t seem appealing. We eventually decided to move on. Behind the temple, we found a large rock face decorated with beautifully carved sculptures. Somewhere beyond these cliffs lies Akka Thangi Falls, but there was no water when we visited, and the waterfall remained hidden from view.

After spending some more time around the temple, we left at around 5:00 PM, marking the end of our Badami sightseeing.

Hidden corners of Badami

For travellers with extra time, Badami offers several lesser-known attractions. The Lower Shivalaya Temple can be reached by climbing a few steps near the museum, while the Upper Shivalaya Temple lies further above. The historic Badami Fort sits atop a cliff opposite the cave temples, with its entrance located near the museum.

Tip: The monkeys around the cave temples are extremely mischievous and can be aggressive. Keep a close watch on your belongings.

An evening detour to Mahakoota

With some daylight still remaining, we decided to visit Mahakoota, a historic temple complex located about 15 km from Badami. Although it wasn’t part of our original itinerary, the extra time encouraged us to make the detour. The road condition was not great, and the journey took around 40 minutes. Mahakoota is a group of ancient temples dating back to the 6th and 7th centuries. Dedicated primarily to Lord Shiva, the complex consists of numerous small shrines surrounding a beautiful Kalyani.

The atmosphere felt timeless. The weathered stone structures and the quiet surroundings created the impression of stepping back several centuries. While the place has immense historical value, we couldn’t help wishing it received better maintenance and preservation.

With the visit to Mahakoota, we successfully completed our first day’s itinerary.

Travel snapshot

Standing before these centuries-old monuments, we were amazed by the engineering brilliance of the craftsmen who carved entire temples out of massive sandstone cliffs. Even after nearly fifteen centuries, these architectural wonders continue to inspire awe.

Badami may have its shortcomings in terms of infrastructure, but its historical treasures more than compensate for them. The town remains a living testament to Karnataka’s glorious past, where history, architecture, and culture come together in unforgettable fashion.

• Route Traveled: Bangalore > Badami > Cave temples > Mallikarjuna Temple Complex > Bhoothanatha Temple > Mahakoota

See also:

• Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal, and Bijapur Trip – Planning
• En route to Badami
• Day 2 – Aihole, Pattadakal, and Alamatti
• Day 3 – Bijapur and Kudala Sangama