Chitradurga

Date: 18-July-15

We had spent a wonderful week with my in-laws and wanted to conclude their stay with a visit to one of Karnataka’s most iconic historical landmarks, Chitradurga Fort.

My father-in-law has always been deeply interested in history. He had recently finished reading Durgastamana by the renowned Kannada writer TaRaSu, a novel that vividly narrates the history of Chitradurga. With the stories and characters still fresh in his mind, we felt it was the perfect time to visit the fort and experience the setting in person.

Setting out before sunrise

Chitradurga is located approximately 230 km from Bangalore. Since the region is known for its hot weather, we wanted to reach the fort as early as possible. AccuWeather had predicted a sunny day, so we planned accordingly and started our journey sharp at 5:30 AM in our little wonder, the Nano. The early start helped us avoid city traffic, and we made quick progress on the route via Yeshwanthpur, Tumkur, and Chitradurga.

Breakfast among superbikes

Beyond Tumkur, the Bangalore–Mumbai Highway (NH4) transforms into a wide six-lane highway. The road was exceptionally smooth, straight, and well maintained, making the drive effortless. We stopped for breakfast at Kamat Restaurant near Sira. If you are travelling from Bangalore, note that the restaurant is located on the right side of the highway, so you need to take the service road and make a U-turn to reach it.

An unexpected surprise awaited us there. As we were enjoying breakfast, several bikers arrived on their superbikes. Harley-Davidsons, BMW motorcycles, Aquilas, and several other powerful machines soon filled the parking area. Watching so many superbikes lined up together was a treat in itself and added a memorable touch to the journey.

Windmills beneath the clouds

After breakfast, we continued towards Chitradurga. Contrary to the weather forecast, the skies remained heavily overcast throughout the drive. The sun hardly made an appearance, which turned out to be a blessing. As we approached Chitradurga, the landscape began to change dramatically. Rocky hillocks appeared on the horizon, and almost every ridge seemed crowned with countless windmills.

The sight of windmills emerging through layers of drifting clouds was mesmerizing. We stopped several times to admire the scenery and capture a few photographs. Some windmills stood close to the highway, while others appeared as tiny silhouettes on distant hills. The cloudy weather made the drive even more beautiful than we had expected.

Entering the legendary fort

We reached Chitradurga Fort at around 10:30 AM. The sheer size of the fort immediately impressed us. Looking at the vast expanse spread across multiple rocky hills, we wondered whether it would even be possible to explore everything in a single day.

Chitradurga Fort was developed and expanded over several centuries by different dynasties, including the Rashtrakutas, Chalukyas, Hoysalas, and the Nayakas of Chitradurga. Later, it came under the control of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan after the defeat of Madakari Nayaka.

Given the fort’s scale and historical significance, we quickly realized that exploring it without a guide would be difficult. At the entrance, we found a guide who agreed to accompany us for ₹300. One of the most fascinating aspects of the fort is its defensive design. Massive stone walls surround the fort in a zigzag pattern, creating strategic ninety-degree turns that made enemy attacks extremely difficult.

Chitradurga Fort is also known as “Elu Suthina Kallina Kote” (The Fort of Seven Circles) because it is protected by seven concentric fortification walls. The first three gateways are located near the foothills, while the remaining four are situated higher up within the fort complex.

Stories hidden within stone walls

The fort is filled with gigantic boulders, ancient temples, water reservoirs, caves, and ruined structures.

Our first stop was Enne Kola, a large tank-like structure that was once used to store oil for lighting lamps throughout the fort.

From there, we visited Bombe Mantapa, which houses broken sculptures of elephants and horses. Nearby stood a small chamber that, according to our guide, was once used to train soldiers. Every corner of the fort seemed to reveal another piece of history. After Bombe Mantapa, we visited the Vinayaka temple. There was also a small room which was used for training the soldiers during ancient times as informed by our guide.

Nature’s sculptures at Chitradurga

As we continued climbing, we encountered numerous naturally shaped rock formations. Among them, the most famous was the Elephant Rock, a giant boulder that remarkably resembles a seated elephant. The resemblance was so striking that it hardly required any imagination.

Our guide also pointed out rocks that locals associate with shapes such as tortoises, crocodiles, chameleons, and ships. These unique rock formations, combined with the picturesque valleys and rugged terrain, are believed to have contributed to the name Chitradurga, meaning “picturesque fort.”

Ekanatheshwari temple

Our next stop was the Ekanatheshwari Temple, which features a massive stone pillar and a beautifully carved stone swing arch at its entrance. The panoramic views from here were spectacular. The vast fort complex, rocky landscape, and distant hills stretched endlessly in every direction.

Nearby stood the Hidimbeshwara Temple, perched atop a smaller hillock. We decided to save that visit for later and continue following our guide through the fort.

Traces of a forgotten kingdom

We then arrived at the ruins of the ancient administrative complex. Most of the structures have deteriorated over time, but they still offer glimpses into the fort’s former importance. One small chamber was identified by our guide as an ancient locker room. Ironically, the room now served as a storage area for discarded beer bottles.

Although the Archaeological Survey has done commendable work preserving the fort, there are still areas that would benefit from better maintenance and visitor awareness.

The sorrowful waters of Akka Thangi Kola

Our next stop was the beautiful Akka Thangi Kola (Sister’s Pond). According to local history, the wives of the king committed suicide here after Hyder Ali’s forces captured the fort. The pond is surrounded by scenic views of the fort and the surrounding hills. Despite its tragic history, the place possesses a quiet beauty that makes it one of the most memorable spots within the fort.

The bravery of Onake Obavva

One of the most significant locations within Chitradurga Fort is Onake Obavvana Kindi.

Most of us in Karnataka grow up hearing the inspiring story of Onake Obavva, the courageous woman who defended the fort against invading soldiers. According to the legend, while her husband Kalanayaka, one of the fort guards, was having lunch, Obavva noticed enemy soldiers attempting to enter the fort through a narrow opening between the rocks. Without alerting the invaders or waiting for help, she used a wooden pestle (Onake) to strike down the soldiers one by one. She quietly moved the bodies aside and continued defending the passage until others became aware of the attack.

Her extraordinary courage has earned her a permanent place in Karnataka’s history. The narrow opening through which the soldiers entered is now known as Obavvana Kindi. Standing there and listening to the story brought history vividly to life.

Hidimbeshwara temple

Our guided tour concluded at Onake Obavvana Kindi. Since the weather remained cool and pleasant, we decided to continue exploring on our own.

On the way back, we climbed to Hidimbeshwara Temple. The temple sits atop a small hillock and offers stunning views of the surrounding fortifications and valleys. The weather was perfect. Cool winds swept across the hill, and the views were absolutely breathtaking. Although an even steeper hill stood nearby, we decided not to attempt the climb. Several visitors, however, were enthusiastically making their way up.

Temples among giant boulders

Our next stop was Sampige Siddeshwara Temple.

My father-in-law wanted to see the palace ruins mentioned in historical accounts, so he and Thilak briefly went searching for them while my mother-in-law and I waited near the temple. Although they explored the area for some time, they could not locate the exact site. Once they returned, we entered the temple.

The setting of Sampige Siddeshwara Temple is truly remarkable. Massive boulders surround the temple on all sides, creating a dramatic and unique atmosphere. After receiving prasada, we visited the nearby Muruga Mutt. Just as we were preparing to leave, heavy rain began to fall. We spent about twenty minutes taking shelter inside the mutt before continuing our exploration.

A monkey man and ancient gunpowder mills

While returning through the fort, we watched the famous Kothi Raj perform his daring stunts. He climbed the towering fort walls with astonishing ease, almost like a monkey, leaving everyone around him amazed.

Before leaving the fort, we made one final stop at Maddu Beesuva Kallu, a site we had accidentally missed earlier. This fascinating location contains four enormous stone grinding wheels that were once used to grind gunpowder for the fort’s defence. Seeing these giant structures provided yet another glimpse into the military ingenuity of the era.

A simple lunch and a scenic lake

By the time we completed our exploration of the fort, it was around 2:30 PM and everyone was hungry. We found a small restaurant in town serving South Indian meals. The food was fairly average, but after a long morning of walking and climbing, it was more than sufficient.

After lunch, we headed to Chandravalli Lake, located about 4 km from the fort. The lake is surrounded by rocky hillocks, and the scenery was absolutely beautiful.

Chandravalli lake

A short climb of around fifty steps from the lake leads to the Chandravalli Cave Temple. The temple is nestled beneath enormous boulders, giving it a unique setting. Nearby stands Ankali Mutt, which adds to the spiritual atmosphere of the area.

We explored the cave and surrounding structures for some time. While the cave itself did not contain much to see and could have been maintained better, the surrounding landscape was quite impressive. One of the giant boulders near the cave looked remarkably like a huge bird when viewed from behind. After spending some time enjoying the peaceful surroundings, we began our return journey at around 4:30 PM.

Journey back home

We returned to Bangalore via the same six-lane highway we had taken in the morning. Rain accompanied us through parts of the journey, adding to the charm of the day. At around 9:00 PM, we finally reached home, bringing an unforgettable trip to an end.

Tips:

• Take return toll tickets wherever available if you plan to return on the same day via the same route. This can help reduce toll expenses. We paid a total toll of ₹288 by opting for return tickets wherever possible.
• Carry sufficient water and an umbrella while exploring the fort, especially during warmer months.
• Good restaurant options are limited within Chitradurga town. Carrying snacks and biscuits can be useful.
• Negotiate the guide charges beforehand. We paid ₹300, and even then not all locations were covered. Make a list of places you want to visit and discuss them with the guide before starting.
• Monkeys are commonly found near Akka Thangi Kola and Chandravalli Lake. Be cautious while carrying or opening food items.

Travel snapshot

Exploring Chitradurga Fort with family, walking through centuries of history, listening to stories of bravery and sacrifice, and witnessing the fort’s magnificent architecture made this one of our most memorable heritage trips. For my father-in-law, it was a chance to connect the places he had recently read about with reality. For the rest of us, it was a journey that transformed history from words on a page into vivid experiences and lasting memories.

• Route travelled: BTM Layout > Sankey Tank > Yashwanthpura > Nelamangala > Tumkur > Sira > Chitradurga
• Total distance (To & Fro): 470 km
• Mileage (Car): 20 km/l
• Fuel expense: 1669 Rs
• Total expense: 3730 Rs 

Route Map