Day 2 – Mahabalipuram

Date: 26-Oct-15

Mahabalipuram, also known as Mamallapuram, is a historic coastal town in the Kanchipuram district of Tamil Nadu. During the 7th century, it served as the port city of the Pallava dynasty. Several remarkable rock-cut monuments, including the Shore Temple, Pancha Rathas, and Descent of the Ganges, were carved along the Coromandel Coast during this period and continue to attract visitors from around the world. Collectively known as the Mahabalipuram Group of Monuments, these structures were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.

Journey from Chennai to Mahabalipuram

The wedding ceremony was held early in the morning, and all the rituals concluded by around 9:00 AM. Since there was not much to do afterward, we returned to our hotel, checked out, and headed back to the wedding hall around 11:30 AM. After lunch, we bid farewell to our relatives and started our journey towards Mahabalipuram at 2:00 PM.

Mahabalipuram is approximately 60 km from Chennai. We traveled via the scenic East Coast Road (ECR), officially known as State Highway 49 (SH49), which runs along the Bay of Bengal coastline. Although the afternoon sun was quite harsh, the road was well maintained except for a few stretches within Chennai city limits. As we progressed, occasional views of the sea made the drive pleasant and enjoyable. We reached Mahabalipuram at around 3:00 PM.

Descent of the Ganges (Arjuna’s penance)

As soon as we entered the town, we paid an entry fee of ₹40. Within a kilometer, we reached one of Mahabalipuram’s most celebrated monuments, Descent of the Ganges, also known as Arjuna’s Penance.

This massive open-air rock relief measures approximately 29 meters by 15 meters and depicts the legendary descent of the sacred River Ganges from heaven to earth through the penance of Bhagiratha. The monument is filled with intricate carvings of gods, sages, celestial beings, animals, and mythical creatures. Standing before this enormous sculpture, one cannot help but admire the creativity and craftsmanship of the artisans who created it over a millennium ago.

Krishna’s Butter Ball

Located just behind the Descent of the Ganges relief is Krishna’s Butter Ball, one of the most fascinating attractions in Mahabalipuram.

This giant boulder, believed to be around 1,200 years old, weighs approximately 250 tons and balances precariously on a narrow rocky slope. Despite appearing as though it could roll down at any moment, it has remained in the same position for centuries, making it one of the town’s most intriguing natural wonders.

Varaha Cave

A short walk from Krishna’s Butter Ball brought us to the Varaha Cave Temple.

This beautiful rock-cut shrine features finely sculpted panels depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The carvings inside the cave are remarkably detailed and reminded us of the sculptures we had seen earlier in the cave temples of Badami. The artistic style and craftsmanship were equally impressive.

Rayar Gopuram

A few more steps uphill led us to Rayar Gopuram, an unfinished monument that offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape.

Although the structure is called a “gopuram,” the tower itself was never completed. Only the massive base intended to support the gopuram was constructed. Even in its unfinished state, the monument looks imposing and serves as an excellent photography spot.

Shore Temple

• Timings: 6 AM to 6 PM
• Entry fee: 10 Rs/person for Indians and 250 Rs/person for foreigners
• Parking fee: 30 Rs (for car parking)

The Shore Temple is the most iconic monument in Mahabalipuram and one of the oldest structural stone temples in South India. Built around 1,300 years ago on the shores of the Bay of Bengal, the temple stands as a magnificent example of Pallava architecture. As we walked from the parking area towards the monument, the temple became increasingly impressive with every step.

The temple’s intricate carvings have endured centuries of exposure to salty sea winds, resulting in noticeable erosion. However, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has implemented conservation measures to protect the structure from further damage. Despite the effects of time and weather, the temple remains extraordinarily beautiful and continues to attract visitors from across the world.

The peaceful atmosphere, combined with the backdrop of the sea, makes the Shore Temple one of the most memorable attractions in Mahabalipuram.

Pancha Rathas

• Entry fee: 10 Rs/person
• Parking fee: 30 Rs (for car parking)

Our final destination in Mahabalipuram was the Pancha Rathas complex, another masterpiece of Pallava architecture.

The name Pancha Rathas translates to “Five Chariots.” The complex consists of five monolithic temples, each carved from a single granite rock and designed in the shape of a chariot. Every structure has a distinct architectural style, showcasing the experimentation and innovation of Pallava artisans. Equally impressive are the monolithic sculptures of animals, including a lion and an elephant, which appear remarkably lifelike. The precision and scale of these carvings make Pancha Rathas one of the finest examples of Indian rock-cut architecture.

Mahabalipuram is truly a paradise for anyone interested in art, architecture, and history. We also learned that every year between December and January, the Tamil Nadu Tourism Department organizes the Indian Dance Festival here. During the festival, renowned artists perform classical dance forms such as Bharatanatyam, Kuchipudi, Kathak, Odissi, Mohiniyattam, and Kathakali against the backdrop of these magnificent monuments. It must be a spectacular experience for lovers of Indian classical arts.

After completing our sightseeing, we began our return journey towards Bangalore. The route took us through Chengalpattu, Kanchipuram, Vellore, Krishnagiri, and Hosur before reaching BTM Layout. The highways were in good condition, making the drive comfortable despite the long distance.

Toll expenses

Toll Plaza Name	Fee (Single journey, Car)
Toll to Mahabalipuram-Pondy Road	24
Toll at Chengalpet	35
Chennasamudram	40
Pallikonda	75
Vaniyambadi	75
Krishnagiri	60
Attibele	25
Total	334

Travel snapshot

Mahabalipuram was the perfect conclusion to our short trip to Tamil Nadu. After attending the family wedding, spending an afternoon among centuries-old monuments carved by the Pallavas felt like stepping back in time. Every attraction showcased extraordinary craftsmanship, from the giant open-air reliefs to the monolithic temples carved from single rocks.

The coastal setting added a unique charm to the experience, especially at the Shore Temple. Despite the hot weather, the beauty and historical significance of the monuments kept us captivated throughout the visit. We left Mahabalipuram with a deep appreciation for the artistic brilliance of the Pallava era and many memorable experiences from the journey.

• Route travelled: Chennai > East Coast Road (ECR) > Mahabalipuram > Chengalpet > Kanchipuram > Vellore > Krishnagiri > Hosur > Electronic City > BTM Layout

See also:

• Kanchipuram and Mahabalipuram – Planning
• Day 1 – Kanchipuram

Route map