Day 1 – Yagachi Dam, Ayyana Kere, and Amrutheshwara temple

Date: 2-Oct-14

Since we had not booked any accommodation in advance, our plan was to reach Chikmagalur as early as possible and search for a hotel after arriving. To make the most of the day, we decided to leave Bangalore at 4:30 AM. It might sound a little crazy, but we were on the road exactly at that time in our trusty Nano. There is something special about travelling in the early hours of the morning. Bangalore, usually bustling with traffic, is still asleep. Roads are empty, the air is cool, and places that normally take an hour to reach can be covered in just fifteen or twenty minutes. The pleasant weather makes the drive even more enjoyable.

Our plan for the day was to visit Yagachi Dam, Ayyanakere Lake, and the historic Amrutheshwara Temple.

A beautiful start on the Hassan highway

We took the Bangalore – Hassan highway and enjoyed a smooth drive through the quiet morning. After sunrise, the journey became even more beautiful. The highway was covered in a blanket of mist, creating a magical atmosphere. With very little traffic on the road, Thilak could maintain a comfortable pace while we enjoyed the scenic drive. By the time we reached Hassan, it was only 7:30 AM, much earlier than we had expected. We were unsure whether any restaurants would be open for breakfast at that hour, but luckily we found a place called Jewel Rock where we had a satisfying breakfast.

While discussing the day’s plan, Thilak mentioned a nearby reservoir called Yagachi Dam near Belur. It was not part of our original itinerary, but since we had time to spare, we decided to visit it.

The pleasant surprise called Yagachi Dam

It took us only about half an hour to reach Yagachi Dam. As soon as we arrived, we were impressed by how well the place was maintained. The reservoir was full, and water was gushing through the dam gates with tremendous force.

The sight was spectacular. The surroundings were calm, the crowd was minimal, and the cool breeze added to the experience. We spent some time admiring the views and taking photographs before continuing our journey. Yagachi Dam turned out to be one of the most pleasant surprises of the trip.

Searching for accommodation in Chikmagalur

After leaving the dam, we continued towards Chikmagalur. The road from Belur was in good condition, but contrary to our expectations, the weather in Chikmagalur was quite hot. We reached the town around 9:30 AM and immediately began our search for accommodation. Indira Gandhi Road had several hotels lined up on both sides, which initially gave us confidence. However, our optimism faded quickly when we found that most hotels were either fully booked or not well maintained.

One hotel quoted ₹2,500 per night for a room, which felt far too expensive. After visiting several places, we finally found a room at Venkatesh Residency. The room was small but clean and reasonably maintained. The tariff was ₹1,200 per night, which still felt expensive for the room, but considering the holiday rush, we decided not to take any chances. We checked in to the hotel at around 10:30 AM and felt relieved to have found a place without spending too much time searching. Since we had originally planned to begin sightseeing after lunch, we now had a couple of hours to relax before heading out again. Our plan for today was to visit Ayyana Kere, Amrutheshwara temple, and Ajjampura.

A scenic drive to Ayyanakere

After resting for a while, we had lunch at a nearby restaurant and started towards Ayyanakere at around 12:30 PM.

Although the afternoon sun was harsh, the drive was beautiful. As we approached a place called Sakrayapatna, the scenery changed completely. Narrow roads passed through endless stretches of arecanut and coconut plantations, accompanied by small irrigation channels flowing beside the road. The final few kilometers before reaching Ayyanakere were particularly picturesque.

The first glimpse of the lake was stunning. Surrounded by hills on three sides, Ayyanakere looked peaceful and majestic. The place was lively with visitors enjoying the water. A small overflow section had created a waterfall-like area where people were happily playing in the shallow water. We could not resist joining them. The cool water was refreshing and provided welcome relief from the afternoon heat. We spent a relaxed couple of hours by the lake before starting our next journey.

Exploring the beautiful Amrutheshwara temple

At around 3:30 PM, we left Ayyanakere and headed towards Amrutheshwara Temple in Amruthapura, which is around 55 km from Ayyanakere. The journey was not as smooth as we had hoped. Traffic near Birur and delays at railway crossings slowed us down considerably. After Tarikere, the road condition deteriorated further, forcing us to drive cautiously.

We finally reached the temple at around 5:00 PM.

I had visited Amrutheshwara Temple many years earlier, and I was happy to see that it remained as beautiful as ever. Built during the Hoysala period, the temple features intricate carvings and architectural details similar to those found in Belur and Halebidu. What surprised us was how relatively unknown the temple remains despite its artistic richness.

We spent some time admiring the sculptures, exploring the temple premises, and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Since we had to go to my aunt’s place at Ajjampura, we decided to leave from Amruthapura at around 5.30 PM.

A visit to relatives and a memorable night drive

Ajjampura is located around 20 km from Amruthapura. We had to take a right turn at Tarikere to reach the town. After Tarikere, the road condition deteriorated considerably. Although the distance was only 20 km, it took us around 45 minutes to reach.My uncle and aunt were delighted to see us. It had been many years since my last visit, and it was wonderful to spend some time catching up with them.

However, the poor road conditions made us anxious about our return journey, so we decided to leave earlier than planned. My uncle suggested a shortcut road to Birur, assuring us that it would save time. Unfortunately, it turned out to be one of the worst roads we had ever travelled on.We started our return journey from Ajjampura and decided to take the shortcut. The road connected Ajjampura and Birur in just 22 km, which sounded promising. However, the moment we entered it, we were shocked by its condition. The road was still under construction and was in an extremely poor state.

Initially, we assumed the bad stretch would last only for a few kilometres. Unfortunately, we were wrong. The horrible road seemed never-ending. To make matters worse, darkness had set in. There was not a single house along the route, no vehicles passing by, and not even a single streetlight in the entire stretch. The road was so rough that Thilak could not drive faster than 20 kmph.

We had no option but to continue. Somehow, we reached Birur at around 8:30 PM. Covering just 22 km had taken us almost one and a half hours. Despite the ordeal, both of us felt proud of our poor Nano for handling such a difficult road. We finally felt relieved once we reached Birur. From there, the road condition improved significantly, and we were able to reach our hotel in about an hour. After having dinner at a nearby hotel, we retired for the day.The road was still under construction and seemed endless. As darkness fell, the situation became even more challenging. There were no streetlights, hardly any houses, and almost no vehicles passing by. The road surface was so uneven that Thilak could not drive faster than 20 km/h. For a while, it felt as though we were driving through the middle of nowhere.

Travel snapshot

The day had been packed with memorable experiences. The mist-covered Hassan highway, the peaceful beauty of Yagachi Dam, the excitement of finding accommodation in Chikmagalur, the refreshing waters of Ayyanakere, the artistic brilliance of Amrutheshwara Temple, the warmth of meeting relatives, and the unforgettable drive through lonely, unfinished roads all combined to make it a truly memorable first day of our Chikmagalur trip.

• Route Travelled: Onward: Chikkamagalur > Ayyana Kere > Kadur > Birur > Tarikere > Amrutheshwara Temple > Tarikere > Ajjampura
  Return: Ajjampura > Baggavalli > Birur > Chikkamagalur

See also:

• Chikamgalur Trip – Planning
• Day 2 – Trek to Tallest Peak of Karnataka
• Day 3 – Kemmanugundi and Kallathi Falls