Janapada Loka, Srirangapatna, and Melukote – Part 2

Date: 2-Apr-16

After having a great time at Janapada Loka, we continued our family trip to Srirangapatna, the historic island town in Mandya district, located about 76 km away from Janapada Loka. We reached around noon and planned to cover the major attractions of Srirangapatna before concluding the day at Melukote. Srirangapatna is home to several important religious and historical attractions associated with the Wodeyars, Hyder Ali, and Tipu Sultan.

Most of the attractions are located on either side of the Bangalore – Mysore Highway. On the right side (while traveling from Bangalore towards Mysore) are Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Jama Masjid, Tipu Sultan’s death place, and Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon. On the left side are Daria Daulat (Summer Palace), Nimishamba Temple, Sangama, and Gumbaz.

Srirangapatna

Our first stop was Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, as we knew the temple would remain closed between 1 PM and 4 PM.

Sri Ranganatha Swamy Temple

• Timings: 7.30 AM to 1 PM and 4 PM to 8 PM

The afternoon sun was unforgiving, but fortunately, the temple was not crowded when we arrived. Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple is believed to have been originally constructed in 984 AD and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in the form of Ranganatha. It is one of the most important pilgrimage centers for devotees of Ranganatha.

We completed our darshan in about half an hour. Seeing Lord Vishnu reclining on the coils of Adishesha from such close proximity was a peaceful and memorable experience. After darshan, we spent some time admiring the temple architecture and taking photographs before moving to the next attraction.

Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon

Located very close to the temple is Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon, a site associated with the military history of Tipu Sultan. The dungeon was built by Tipu Sultan and used to imprison British officers captured during his battles. It is named after Colonel Bailey, a British officer who died while imprisoned here. The dungeon lies below ground level, and visitors need to descend a few steps to reach it.

Stone slabs fixed into the walls at shoulder height were used to chain prisoners, who reportedly stood in waist-deep cold water. One of the interesting features here is a large cannon that is believed to have crashed through the roof during Tipu Sultan’s conflict with the British.

After spending some time exploring the dungeon, we briefly stopped to view Jama Masjid and the spot where Tipu Sultan’s body was found after the Battle of Srirangapatna. By then, it was time for lunch. While the town center has limited dining options, a few decent restaurants can be found about a kilometer towards Mysore. We chose Hotel Parampare for lunch before continuing with the remaining attractions.

Daria Daulat

• Timings: 9 AM to 5 PM
• Entry fee: 15 Rs for Indians, 100 Rs for foreigners, 25 Rs for video camera

Our first stop after lunch was Daria Daulat, also known as Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace. Built in 1784, the palace stands amidst a vast and beautifully maintained garden. The structure is renowned for its exquisite paintings that cover almost every inch of its walls and ceilings. The detailed artwork depicting scenes from Tipu Sultan’s life and battles is remarkable.

The Durbar Hall is especially impressive. The palace also houses a museum displaying paintings from Tipu Sultan’s era, personal artifacts, portraits, and historical exhibits. One of the most fascinating displays is a life-size portrait of a young Tipu Sultan that appears to follow you wherever you stand within a wide viewing angle.

The heat outside had become intense by then, so we spent some time relaxing in the gardens before heading to our next destination.

Nimishamba Temple

• Timings: 6.30 AM to 8.30 PM

Nimishamba Temple is located about 2.5 km from Daria Daulat on the road leading towards Sangama. Dedicated to Goddess Parvathi, the temple is situated on the banks of the River Kaveri in Ganjam.

The temple was moderately crowded, and darshan took a little longer than expected. Nearby lies Sangama, where the rivers Kaveri, Kabini, and Hemavathi meet. Although Sangama is a popular attraction, we decided to skip it due to time constraints.

Gumbaz

• Timings: 8 AM to 6.30 PM
• Parking fee: 50 Rs (car)

Our final stop in Srirangapatna was Gumbaz, located just a kilometer from Nimishamba Temple. Built by Tipu Sultan as a tribute to his father Hyder Ali, this magnificent mausoleum later became the final resting place of Tipu Sultan himself and his mother, Fatima Fakhr-un-Nisa. Constructed in Persian architectural style, Gumbaz features elegant domes, intricately carved walls, and beautifully designed minarets.

Surrounded by a peaceful garden, the monument offers a calm atmosphere where visitors can spend time relaxing. Although Thilak and I had visited Gumbaz a couple of months earlier, we still found it as refreshing and impressive as before. One disappointing aspect, however, was the parking arrangement. Despite being a major tourist attraction, there was no proper parking facility. Visitors were charged ₹50 simply to park in an open area without any significant infrastructure or security.

With Gumbaz, we completed our sightseeing in Srirangapatna. As planned, we then left Srirangapatna and continued towards another popular destination, Melukote.

Travel snapshot

Srirangapatna turned out to be a fascinating blend of history, architecture, and spirituality. From ancient temples to monuments associated with Tipu Sultan, every place offered a glimpse into the region’s rich past. Despite the scorching summer heat, exploring these historic landmarks was both engaging and rewarding.

• Places covered in Srirangapatna: Srirangapatna > Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple > Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon > Dariya Daulat > Nimishamba Temple > Gumbaz

See also:

• Janapada Loka
• Melukote

Route Map