Hogenakkal Falls

Date: 12-Sep-15

Hogenakkal Falls, located in the Dharmapuri district of Tamil Nadu, is often referred to as the Niagara of India. Formed by the mighty River Kaveri, the destination is known for its numerous waterfalls, coracle rides, and breathtaking river scenery.

I had visited Hogenakkal a few years earlier with friends and had been eager to show its beauty to Thilak. Unfortunately, while the journey turned out to be memorable, the destination itself left us disappointed.

A spontaneous weekend plan

Since we had no plans for the weekend, we decided to make a quick trip to Hogenakkal. Unlike our usual trips, this one involved very little planning. The most commonly used route to Hogenakkal is: Bangalore → Hosur → Krishnagiri → Dharmapuri → Hogenakkal. Although this route is longer at around 174 km, it is preferred because the roads are excellent and travel time is relatively shorter.

For us, however, highways often feel monotonous. We preferred exploring lesser-traveled roads and discovering new landscapes along the way. So we chose a different route: Bangalore → Kanakapura → Anchetty → Hogenakkal. We knew the road was good up to Kanakapura, but beyond that, we had no idea what to expect.

Through villages, forests, and hills

We started from Bangalore at 8:00 AM and reached Kanakapura around 9:00 AM. After having breakfast at an Udupi restaurant near the town entrance, we resumed our journey at around 9:45 AM. The road beyond Kanakapura quickly turned into one of the highlights of the trip.

Traffic almost disappeared after a few kilometers. The road passed through small villages, open countryside, and vast stretches of farmland. The peaceful surroundings and complete absence of crowds made us instantly feel that we had made the right decision. The roads were in excellent condition, making the ride even more enjoyable.

Soon we crossed into Tamil Nadu, and the scenery became even more picturesque. Endless fields stretched on either side, with distant mountain ranges forming a beautiful backdrop. Hardly any vehicles passed us. It felt as if we had the entire road to ourselves.

As the journey continued, the landscape changed several times. For a brief stretch, the road passed through a forested section before opening up again into rural countryside dotted with villages. Every turn brought a new view, making the ride feel far more rewarding than a highway journey. After crossing Anchetty and nearing Hogenakkal, we entered a small ghat section. The elevated views from this stretch were spectacular. The combination of winding roads, rolling hills, and open landscapes made it one of the most scenic parts of the journey.

By the time we reached Hogenakkal, we were already convinced that the ride itself had been worth the trip.

Arrival at Hogenakkal Falls

We reached Hogenakkal around noon. Had we not stopped frequently for photographs and breaks, we could easily have arrived an hour earlier. But every stop had been worthwhile. Around 1 km before entering the town, visitors were required to pay an entry fee of ₹10. We parked our bike near the bus stand, where parking cost ₹20.

The temperature was around 32°C. Although warm, it was not excessively humid. I was excited to show Thilak the magnificent waterfalls I remembered from my previous visit. Unfortunately, we soon discovered that things had changed significantly.

A disappointing surprise

The area near the bathing section was crowded, as expected. Hogenakkal is famous for two major experiences:

• Coracle rides
• Traditional oil massages

While plenty of people were enjoying oil massages, something immediately caught our attention: the complete absence of coracle rides. As we walked further toward the main waterfall area, we noticed that access was restricted almost everywhere. Initially, we assumed that the visitor route had been altered. However, after speaking with local shopkeepers and a few other visitors, we learned that access to most attractions had been closed and coracle rides had been suspended following recent accidents. We confirmed the information with multiple people and received the same answer each time.

The only accessible viewpoint

The only attraction open to visitors that day was the hanging bridge. From the bridge, the view of the waterfalls was still beautiful. The river cascaded through rocky formations, creating a dramatic landscape. Thilak was happy to enjoy the falls from a distance, but I could not help feeling disappointed.

During my previous visit, visitors could get much closer to the waterfalls, including the magnificent main falls that truly justified Hogenakkal’s reputation as the Niagara of India. Standing there and seeing the falls from afar felt frustrating because the most impressive sections remained inaccessible. Yet there was little we could do.

After spending some time near the bridge, we had lunch at Hotel Tamil Nadu, which appeared to be the most decent option nearby. Unfortunately, the food was average at best. After lunch, we made one final attempt to see whether any route to the main waterfalls had reopened. No such luck. Every major access point remained closed. Accepting defeat, we finally decided it was time to head back.

Journey back home

At around 2:00 PM, we began our return journey. The moment we got back on the bike, the disappointment started fading. The weather was warm, but riding through open countryside felt incredibly refreshing. For the return leg, we chose a different route: Hogenakkal → Palacode → Rayakottai → Hosur → Bangalore. This route was also scenic, though not quite as spectacular as the Kanakapura–Anchetty stretch. Some sections were more crowded, and road conditions were less consistent. Nevertheless, it offered enough variety to make the ride enjoyable.

By now, both of us were feeling tired. We were not accustomed to such long bike rides, and the afternoon heat added to the fatigue. We took several breaks along the way and finally reached home at around 6:30 PM.

After returning home, we looked up the reason behind the strict restrictions at Hogenakkal. We learned that just two weeks earlier, six members of a family from Chennai, including two children, had tragically drowned when a coracle capsized. Reports indicated that the accident occurred due to negligence on the part of the coracle operator. The restrictions suddenly made much more sense. While the closures had significantly affected our visit, visitor safety was understandably the priority.

Tips

• Be extra careful if you are opting for a coracle ride. Wear life jacket while going in a coracle and DO NOT allow the rider to include more than 6 people into a coracle at a time.
• Before visiting Hogenakkal, get the information if you can visit all the attractions without any restriction. I have read in many blogs that most of the times the entry will be restricted due to major accidents.

Travel snapshot

Although Hogenakkal itself turned out to be disappointing, the trip was far from a failure. The lonely roads, changing landscapes, forest stretches, village scenery, mountain views, and the freedom of exploring them on a bike made the experience truly memorable.

Sometimes a destination may not live up to expectations, but the journey itself creates memories that last much longer. This was one such trip.

• Route Travelled: Onward: BTM Layout > Kanakapura > Anchetty > Hogenakkal Waterfalls
  Return: Hogenakkal Waterfalls > Palacode > Rayakottai > Hosur > BTM Layout
• Total distance (To & Fro): 300 km
• Mileage (Bike): 40 km/l
• Fuel expense: 480 Rs
• Total expense: 858 Rs 

Route Map