Day 2 – A Well-Spent Day in Coorg

Date: 26-Dec-15

We woke up to a pleasantly chilly morning at 6:30 AM. Instead of rushing to follow our itinerary, we decided to enjoy the peaceful surroundings near our guest house with a morning walk. We planned to have breakfast at the guest house and begin sightseeing at around 9 AM.

Morning walk through the coffee estates

Near our guest house were several coffee estates surrounded by complete silence and greenery. There was hardly anyone on the roads. As we walked, we passed a few charming village homes and could not help admiring the simplicity and contentment of life in this part of Coorg.

The coffee plants were laden with ripe coffee berries, a sight that was completely new to us. The peaceful atmosphere, fresh air, and scenic surroundings made us reluctant to return. However, with a packed day ahead, we eventually headed back. This unplanned walk through the coffee estates turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of the trip.

Nalknad Palace

After a hearty breakfast at the guest house, we started our journey at 9 AM. Since we were already running about an hour behind schedule, we decided to skip Chelavara Falls and make Nalknad Palace our first destination.

The palace is located around 50 km from our guest house. We drove via Gonikoppal and Virajpet towards Kakkabe. The journey itself was delightful, with winding roads passing through lush coffee plantations. About 2 km before Kakkabe, we took a left turn towards Nalknad Palace. The final stretch of approximately 2 km was in poor condition, filled with potholes and extremely narrow sections.

We reached the palace at 10:45 AM. The popular Thadiyandamol Peak was clearly visible behind the palace. Built in 1794, Nalknad Palace served as a hiding place for the kings of that period. Despite being called a palace, it is not a grand structure but resembles a large traditional house.

A caretaker guided us through the building and explained its history. He showed us the secret hiding chambers, which became completely dark when the lights were turned off. He also pointed out the wall paintings, many of which have faded significantly over time. Near the palace, there is a beautiful school. During our visit, the children and staff were engaged in games and activities, adding a lively atmosphere to the otherwise quiet surroundings.

Igguthappa Temple

We left Nalknad Palace at 11:30 AM and reached Igguthappa Temple via Kakkabe at around 11:50 AM. A community function was taking place at the temple, preventing us from entering the main shrine. However, we were able to witness some of the rituals and celebrations of the Kodava community. After spending a short while there, we left at around 12:15 PM.

Sri Bhagandeshwara temple, Bhagamandala

• Timings: 6.30 AM to 1.30 PM and 3 PM to 8.30 PM

Our next destination was Bhagamandala, one of the most important attractions in Coorg. The route from Igguthappa Temple to Bhagamandala was exceptionally scenic. Although the distance was only about 27 km, the narrow and winding roads meant that the drive took nearly an hour. There are two major attractions in Bhagamandala: Triveni Sangama and Sri Bhagandeshwara Temple.

Triveni Sangama is the confluence where the River Kaveri meets the streams Kannike and Sujyothi. Many visitors come here to take a holy dip and perform rituals for their ancestors. Fortunately, the place was not very crowded when we visited.

A short walk from the confluence leads to Sri Bhagandeshwara Temple, where Bhagandeshwara (Shiva), Subrahmanya, Mahavishnu, and Ganapathi are worshipped. The temple is large, beautiful, and spiritually significant.

Note: Visitors are expected to follow a decent dress code inside the temple.

Talakaveri

• Timings: 6 AM to 6 PM
• Entry/parking fee: 20 Rs (collected in Bhagamandala)

We left Bhagandeshwara Temple at around 1:45 PM and initially planned to have lunch at a nearby Kamat restaurant. However, the restaurant was overcrowded, and finding a seat seemed unlikely. We therefore postponed lunch and continued to Talakaveri, which is around 8 km away. The drive from Bhagamandala to Talakaveri was beautiful.

Talakaveri, located in the Brahmagiri Hills, is considered the birthplace of the sacred River Kaveri and is one of the most important places to visit in Coorg.

We reached Talakaveri at around 2:30 PM. Surrounded by rolling hills, the site features a sacred tank known as the Kundike, which marks the symbolic origin of the river. Many devotees take a holy dip here and offer prayers at the nearby shrines.

There are two temples within the complex: one dedicated to Lord Shiva and the other to Lord Ganesha.

Brahmagiri peak

One of the main attractions at Talakaveri is the climb to Brahmagiri Peak. Reaching the summit requires climbing approximately 200 steps.

Although the ascent is steep, the increasingly spectacular views of the surrounding hills make the effort worthwhile. Taking occasional breaks made the climb comfortable for us. The panoramic view from the top was breathtaking. Layers of green mountains stretching into the distance beneath a clear blue sky created one of the most memorable landscapes of the trip.

Note: Since footwear is not allowed inside the Talakaveri premises, visitors must complete the climb barefoot. This can be challenging during hot weather or for those unaccustomed to walking without shoes.

Raja Seat

• Timings: 6.30 AM to 8 PM
• Musical fountain timings: 7 PM onwards
• Entrance fee: 5 Rs/person
• Parking fee: 40 Rs (for car) (I am not sure if this is the regular fee or only we had to pay because of peak season)

By the time we left Talakaveri, it was already 4:30 PM. Raja Seat was approximately an hour away, and we were running short of time. As a result, we skipped both lunch and evening snacks. Raja Seat is a beautiful garden in Madikeri and is believed to have been a favourite spot of the Kodagu kings, who spent evenings here watching the sunset with their queens.

We reached at around 5:40 PM. The place was packed with visitors, and finding parking was difficult despite paying ₹40. After somehow parking our Nano, we hurried towards the sunset viewpoint. The viewpoint was crowded, but we managed to find a good spot. Within minutes of our arrival, the sun slowly disappeared behind the rolling green hills. Watching the sunset over the mountains was a wonderful experience.

Apart from the sunset, Raja’s Seat also features: a musical fountain and a toy train ride We spent some time watching the musical fountain before leaving at around 7 PM.

Return to the guest house

Madikeri town was experiencing heavy traffic due to the holiday rush, and it took considerable time to get out of the town. Because we were short on time, we skipped our planned visit to Omkareshwara Temple and drove directly back to the guest house.

We reached the guest house at around 8:45 PM, had dinner, and retired for the day. The roads we travelled throughout the day were among the most scenic routes of the trip.

Travel snapshot

This day turned out to be one of the most memorable days of our Coorg trip. From the peaceful morning walk through the coffee estates to the breathtaking views from Brahmagiri Peak, every moment felt refreshing and rewarding. The winding roads, lush greenery, and calm village atmosphere made the journey as enjoyable as the destinations themselves.

Watching the sunset from Raja’s Seat after a day filled with scenic drives and beautiful landscapes was the perfect way to end the day. Although we had to skip a few places due to time constraints, we never felt disappointed because Coorg kept surprising us with its natural beauty at every turn. More than the attractions, it was the serenity of the hills, the endless coffee plantations, and the charm of the countryside that stayed with us. We returned to the guest house tired but completely satisfied with how the day had unfolded.

• Route Travelled: Coorg Guest House > Gonikoppal > Virajpet > (towards Kakkabe) Nalknad Palace > Igguthappa Temple > Bhagamandala > Talakaveri > Bhagamandala > Raja Seat > Virajpet > Gonikoppal > Coorg Guest House 

See also:

• Coorg and a Glimpse of Wayanad
• Day 1 – On the Way to Coorg
• Day 3 – Touching Wayanad

Route Map