Day 1 – On the way to Coorg

Date: 25-Dec-15

Our Christmas holiday road trip began at 4:00 AM from Bangalore. The city was beautifully illuminated with festive lights celebrating Christmas and welcoming the New Year. Despite the early hour, there was a noticeable amount of traffic, likely due to Christmas Eve celebrations and holiday travellers heading out of the city.

Shettihalli Church

Our first destination was the famous Shettihalli Rosary Church in Hassan district. After crossing Nelamangala, we joined the Bangalore–Mangalore Highway (NH48). Near Channarayapatna, about a kilometre before the next toll plaza, we took a left turn towards Devihalli. We chose this route both to avoid the toll and to experience the countryside roads. Although parts of the road were narrow and uneven, the drive was pleasant. Following Google Maps, we reached Shettihalli Church at around 8:00 AM.

• Timings: Open throughout the day (Avoid visiting this place in dark as the place is deserted and looks haunted)
• Entry fee: None

Both of us had wanted to visit this 155-year-old church for a long time, and finally the opportunity arrived. The Rosary Church was built in 1860 by French missionaries on the banks of the Hemavathi River in Hassan district. Today, only the ruins remain.

When the Gorur Dam was constructed across the Hemavathi River during the 1960s, 28 nearby villages, including Shettihalli, were relocated. The church was left behind during this relocation. Since then, it has gained fame for its unique seasonal transformation. Every monsoon, the church gets partially or completely submerged, only to re-emerge once the water level recedes.

We parked our car some distance away because the road ahead was not in good condition, although it is possible to reach closer to the church through an alternate route. A 10-15 minute walk brought us to the site.

During our visit, the church was not submerged and looked stunning as we approached. The ruins hint at the grandeur the structure must once have possessed, while also serving as a reminder of its fascinating history. The peaceful surroundings and dramatic architecture make it an excellent destination for photography. It is the kind of place where one can spend hours simply enjoying the calm atmosphere and scenic beauty.

Gorur Dam

Our next stop was Gorur Dam in Hassan district, located about 17 km from Shettihalli Church. The massive dam was clearly visible from the road and looked impressive even from a distance. Since none of the gates were open during our visit, we decided not to drive all the way to the dam. Instead, we stopped briefly to admire the structure, took a few photographs, and continued our journey towards Coorg.

Kaveri Nisargadhama

• Timings: 9 AM to 5 PM
• Entry fee: 10 Rs/person, 25 Rs/person for elephant ride and 100 Rs/person for boating
• Parking fee: 20 Rs (for Car)

From Gorur, we drove towards Kushalnagar in Coorg. On the way, we stopped at a small hotel called Sri Ramakrishna in Konanur for breakfast. After breakfast, we continued via the Konanur-Makutta road and reached Kaveri Nisargadhama at around 10:45 AM.

Kaveri Nisargadhama is a 64-acre island formed by the River Kaveri near Kushalnagar. The large crowd at the entrance immediately gave us an idea of what to expect during the next three days of our holiday trip. The island is known for its lush greenery and variety of trees. One interesting feature we noticed was the animal paintings on several tree trunks, which looked both creative and amusing. A beautiful hanging bridge connects the island to the mainland. Inside, visitors can enjoy elephant rides, boating, nature walks, and a deer park that offers a close view of these gentle animals. There is also a safe section along the river where visitors can step into the water.

The peaceful environment and scenic walking trails made for a refreshing experience. After spending about an hour exploring the island, we left at around 11:45 AM.

Bylakuppe Golden Temple

• Timings: 7 AM to 8 PM
• Entry fee: none
• Parking fee: 20 Rs (for car)

Our next destination was Bylakuppe, located around 7 km from Nisargadhama. Bylakuppe is home to one of the largest Tibetan settlements in India. The influence of Tibetan culture is visible everywhere, from the people and architecture to the monasteries that dominate the landscape. The most popular attraction here is the Namdroling Monastery, better known as the Golden Temple.

The monastery is one of the largest teaching centres of the Nyingma lineage of Tibetan Buddhism in the world. Inside, three magnificent statues of Padmasambhava, Buddha, and Amitayus stand tall in the prayer hall. The colourful murals and intricate artwork on the walls and ceilings are equally impressive.

Although the monastery was crowded during our visit, it retained a remarkable sense of peace and serenity. We had read that the monks conduct daily prayers inside the monastery and that witnessing the ceremony is a must-see experience. According to the information we found, the prayers were expected to begin around 1:00 PM. Unfortunately, even after waiting until 1:30 PM, the prayers had not started. Disappointed, we finally decided to leave.

There are a few restaurants near the monastery complex. We had lunch at Athithi Hotel, though the experience was not particularly memorable. After lunch, we started towards Abbey Falls at around 2:45 PM.

Abbi Falls

• Timings: 9 AM to 5 PM
• Entry fee: None
• Parking fee: 20 Rs (for car)

We reached Abbi Falls at around 3:30 PM. The parking area was packed with vehicles, reflecting the holiday-season rush. From the parking lot, visitors must walk for approximately 15 minutes through coffee plantations to reach the viewpoint.

We were happy to see a good volume of water flowing in the falls. During the monsoon season, Abbey Falls is said to be even more spectacular. A hanging bridge directly opposite the waterfall normally offers an excellent view, but access to the bridge was restricted during our visit. Since the place was crowded, we spent only a short time at the falls and left around 4:00 PM.

Madikeri Fort

• Timings: 10 AM to 5.30 PM (closed on Mondays)
• Entry fee: None

We reached Madikeri Fort, located in the heart of Madikeri town, at around 4:30 PM. Built during the 17th century, the fort houses the Deputy Commissioner’s Office, a museum, St. Mark’s Church, and several other structures. The elevated location also offers beautiful views of Madikeri town and its surroundings.

Madikeri Fort was the final attraction on our itinerary for the day. We left the fort at 5:00 PM and began our journey towards Coorg Guest House in Srimangala, which is approximately 72 km away.

Scenic drive to Srimangala

The drive from Madikeri to Srimangala via Virajpet and Gonikoppal turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of the day. Contrary to our expectations, the roads were in excellent condition and the scenery remained beautiful throughout the journey. Including a short tea break at Virajpet, it took us around two and a half hours to reach the guest house at 7:30 PM.

Although Coorg Guest House is located away from the main tourist attractions of Coorg, the room was neat, comfortable, and well maintained. The amenities were basic, but the hospitality of the hosts more than compensated for it. Their warmth and friendliness made us feel completely at home.

Toll expenses

Toll Plaza Name	Fee (Single journey, Car)
Bangalore-Nelamangala Toll	20
Doddakarenahalli (Devihalli toll)	41
Karbylu (Bellur Cross) (Devihalli toll)	41
Kirasave (Devihalli Toll)	40
Total	142

Travel snapshot

The first day of our trip offered a wonderful mix of history, nature, spirituality, and scenic drives. From the haunting beauty of Shettihalli Church and the peaceful surroundings of Nisargadhama to the vibrant Tibetan culture of Bylakuppe and the lush landscapes of Coorg, the day exceeded our expectations. Despite the holiday crowds, we managed to stay on schedule and successfully completed every destination planned for the day.

The scenic evening drive through the coffee-growing regions of Coorg was the perfect conclusion to an eventful Christmas Day.

• Route Traveled: BTM Layout > Yashwantpur > Nelamangala > Chennarayapattana > Devihalli > Shettihalli Church > Gorur > Konanur > Kaveri Nisargadhama > Bylekuppe > Abbi Falls > Madikeri Fort > Coorg Guest House (Srimangala)

See also:

• Coorg and a Glimpse of Wayanad
• Day 2 – A Well Spent Day in Coorg
• Day 3 – Touching Wayanad

Route Map