Lepakshi and Bhoganandishwara Temple

Date: 14-Mar-15

This was our second trip of the month, and one that we had been looking forward to for a long time. Lepakshi had been on our travel list for quite a while, and this time we finally turned the plan into reality. My brother Rajath joined us, making it an even more enjoyable outing.

Located in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh, Lepakshi is about 130 km from Bangalore and is famous for its magnificent temple complex dating back to the Vijayanagara Empire.

Planning the trip

The stunning photographs of Lepakshi that we came across online were enough to make us overlook the scorching summer weather of Andhra Pradesh. The temple’s architecture, sculptures, and murals made it a destination we simply could not miss.

While planning the itinerary, we also discovered the ancient Bhoganandishwara Temple, located at the foothills of Nandi Hills. Known for its remarkable architecture and rich history, the temple was conveniently situated on our return route. Since both destinations were historically significant and architecturally rich, we decided to combine them into a single day trip.

Journey to Lepakshi

As planned, we started from home at 7:45 AM. After having breakfast at Swadishta Aahar near our home and filling fuel for our trusted tourer, the Nano, we officially began the journey at 8:15 AM. The moderate morning traffic helped us reach Hebbal within half an hour.

The easiest and most popular route to Lepakshi is via NH7 through Devanahalli and Chikkaballapur, thanks to its excellent road conditions. However, Thilak had a different plan. He always prefers travelling through villages and lesser-known roads rather than spending hours on highways. According to him, village roads offer a glimpse into local life and make the journey far more interesting. Following his plan, we took the route via Hebbal → Yelahanka → Doddaballapur → Gauribidanur → Hindupur.

The roads were narrow but in reasonably good condition. Along the way, we passed numerous villages, dry landscapes, and rocky hills. The terrain was completely different from the lush greenery we were used to seeing in many parts of Karnataka. The weather was extremely hot, and the dry surroundings made us wonder how people managed to live comfortably in such conditions. At Hindupur, we took a right turn towards Lepakshi. There were very few signboards along the route, and Google Maps proved invaluable in helping us stay on track.

Lepakshi

We reached Lepakshi at around 11:30 AM. The village itself was quite small, making it easy to spot the temple. After parking the car, we headed straight inside.

The temple complex immediately impressed us with its size and excellent maintenance. Although historical records date the temple to the Vijayanagara period, the sculptures and artwork still looked remarkably fresh and well preserved. The main shrine is dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra, but the complex also houses several smaller shrines dedicated to various deities.After receiving prasada from the priest, we began exploring the temple in detail.

Marvels of ancient engineering and art

The ceilings were adorned with beautiful mural paintings, while the pillars showcased intricate carvings that reflected the extraordinary craftsmanship of the era.

One of the most fascinating features of the temple was the famous hanging pillar. Even today, it leaves visitors wondering about the engineering brilliance of the artisans who built the structure centuries ago. Watching a pillar that seemingly does not rest completely on the ground was both intriguing and astonishing.

The temple’s verandas were lined with beautifully carved pillars, each displaying unique artistic details.

Another major attraction was the enormous Naga sculpture, which immediately drew our attention. However, my personal favourite was the magnificent Kalyana Mantapa. The unfinished yet intricately carved structure was breathtaking. Every pillar seemed to tell a story through its sculptures. The afternoon sunlight illuminated the stone carvings perfectly, making it an ideal setting for photography.

We spent a considerable amount of time taking photographs and admiring the craftsmanship before finally leaving the temple at around 1:00 PM.

Just opposite the temple, we noticed an Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC) hotel. We had not come across any mention of this hotel while researching the trip, so it seemed to be a relatively recent addition. Since it was lunchtime, we decided to stop there for a meal. The authentic Andhra-style lunch was delicious and much needed after exploring the temple under the hot sun.

Huge monolithic Nandi

Right next to the hotel stood another famous attraction of Lepakshi, the gigantic monolithic Nandi.

The massive sculpture looked impressive against the open landscape, and naturally, we spent some time photographing it before beginning our return journey.

Bhoganandishwara Temple

Our next destination was Bhoganandishwara Temple. Using Google Maps, Thilak managed to find a route that avoided the toll road while leading us back towards Gauribidanur. The road conditions on this stretch were not particularly good, but the route served its purpose.

We reached Gauribidanur around 4:00 PM and continued towards Chikkaballapur and Nandi Village. By around 5:00 PM, we arrived at Bhoganandishwara Temple.

The temple complex was vast, ancient, and incredibly beautiful. Dating back to around 800 AD, it is significantly older than the Lepakshi Temple. Adding to its charm was the fact that Nandi Hills rose majestically behind the temple, creating a stunning backdrop. Although we had visited Nandi Hills several times before, we had somehow missed this architectural gem hidden at its base.

The carvings within the temple complex were exceptional. In many places, the sculptures reminded us of the artistic brilliance seen at Belur and Halebidu. The temple was peaceful, uncrowded, and offered a refreshing contrast to the more popular tourist attractions nearby. One of the highlights of the temple was its beautiful Kalyani (temple tank). The tranquil water, stone steps, and surrounding architecture created a picture-perfect scene.

Although the temple officially remains open until 7:00 PM, the guards close access to the Kalyani once the sun begins to set. We spent some time exploring the temple complex, soaking in its serene atmosphere, and admiring its remarkable architecture before beginning our journey back at around 6:00 PM.

Journey back home

The return drive was smooth, and we reached home at around 8:00 PM.

As the day came to an end, we reflected on how rewarding the trip had been. Both destinations had exceeded our expectations in their own unique ways.

Travel snapshot

This was undoubtedly a day well spent. The beautifully carved stone pillars, stunning mural paintings, ingenious architectural elements, and rich history made Lepakshi an unforgettable experience. It is one of those places where every corner reveals a new artistic masterpiece.

Equally memorable was the discovery of Bhoganandishwara Temple. While thousands of visitors flock to Nandi Hills every weekend, many remain unaware of this magnificent heritage monument located right at its foothills. For us, finding this hidden treasure was one of the highlights of the trip.

If you appreciate history, architecture, ancient temples, and lesser-known heritage sites, both Lepakshi and Bhoganandishwara Temple deserve a place on your travel list.

• Route Travelled: Onward: BTM Layout > Hebbal > Yelahanka > Doddaballapura > Hindupura > Lepakshi
  Return: Lepakshi > Gauribidanur > Chikkaballapura > Nandi (Bhoganandishwara temple) > Devanahalli > Hebbal > KR Puram > Marathalli > Silkboard > BTM Layout
• Total distance (To & Fro): 300 km
• Mileage (Car): 22 km/l
• Fuel expense: 900 Rs
• Total expense: 1525 Rs

Route Map