Kabbaladurga and Muthathi
Date: 19-Jan-14
We had planned a day trip that combined adventure and nature, a trek to Kabbaladurga followed by a visit to Muthathi on the banks of the Kaveri River.
We met Sudhir at Hudson Circle at 6:30 AM and started our journey towards Mysore Road. The cool January morning provided perfect riding conditions, and the roads were relatively quiet. After stopping at Bidadi for breakfast around 7:30 AM, we continued towards Channapatna, where we packed lunch since we were unsure about the food options available in Muthathi.
Reaching Kabbala Durga
We left Channapatna at 9:10 AM and headed towards Kabbalu. Along the way, a massive rocky hill suddenly appeared in the distance. It was Kabbaladurga, crowned by the famous Kabbalamma Temple at its summit.
I had read about Kabbaladurga earlier and knew it was considered one of the toughest treks in the region. Seeing the steep rocky hill in person only reinforced that impression. While Sudhir and Thilak seemed excited by the challenge, I immediately ruled it out and firmly declared that I had no intention of climbing it.
The boys were visibly disappointed but agreed. At least, that is what I thought.
Soon, they suggested that we ride up to the base of the hill just to have a closer look before continuing to Muthathi. Looking back, I suspect this was part of Thilak’s master plan to convince me to trek. And it worked.
Once we reached the base, I noticed a series of steps carved into the hillside near the upper sections of the hill. Somehow, seeing those steps gave me the confidence I needed. To the delight of both Thilak and Sudhir, I suddenly changed my mind and agreed to give the trek a try. I think they had been waiting for that moment all along. We parked our bikes near a worksite and began the climb.
Challenging climb
There was no clearly defined trail, and we climbed wherever we could find a reasonable path. The initial stretch was manageable, but the terrain became progressively steeper as we gained altitude. The rocky surface, increasing heat, and the weight of our backpacks made the climb considerably more difficult.
By around 11:15 AM, we had reached roughly halfway up the hill and decided to take a break.
That was when reality hit me. I happened to glance down the slope and was stunned by how steep it actually was. The view below made me lose confidence instantly. The climb ahead looked impossible, and fear quickly replaced my enthusiasm.
I told the boys that I could not continue. Although Thilak wanted to push further, he did not want to leave me alone on the hillside, so he stayed back. Nearby, we could see a flight of steps leading further up the hill. I tried my best to gather enough courage to at least reach those steps, but I was simply too frightened to move from where I was sitting. Sudhir explored a little further ahead but soon returned, admitting that he too felt uncomfortable continuing. And so, our Kabbaladurga trek ended halfway.
Fearless devotees
While we sat there recovering and enjoying the view, something remarkable unfolded before us.
Groups of local devotees visiting the Kabbalamma Temple were climbing the hill with incredible ease. Men, women, and even small children navigated the steep slopes effortlessly. Many of them were carrying pooja items, and some were even carrying young children on their shoulders. We watched in complete amazement. The climb that had left us exhausted and intimidated seemed effortless to them. It was difficult to understand how they managed it so confidently.
One particular couple left a lasting impression on us. Both husband and wife were carrying small children on their shoulders while climbing the steep hill without the slightest hesitation. Even today, I wonder how they managed it so comfortably.
Perhaps faith truly gives people extraordinary strength.
Not everyone had it easy, though. We noticed a young man who had followed his friends along a shortcut route. Unfortunately, he became stranded on an extremely steep section of the hill. He was unable to climb further and equally unable to descend. For nearly half an hour, he struggled while his friends tried to help him. Eventually, with their support, he managed to reach the top safely.
The entire episode kept us captivated.
A rewarding halfway point
Although we never reached the summit, the experience was far from disappointing. The views from our halfway point were breathtaking. The surrounding landscape was dotted with countless small hills, and the scenery stretched endlessly in every direction. If the view from halfway up was this beautiful, we could only imagine what awaited those who reached the top. We spent our time admiring the scenery, chatting, taking photographs, and simply soaking in the atmosphere.
At around noon, we began our descent and reached the base by 12:30 PM. From there, we continued our journey towards Muthathi via Sathanur.
A disappointing visit to Muthathi
I had high expectations for Muthathi. Unfortunately, both the journey and the destination turned out to be disappointing.
We had imagined riding through dense forest roads, but the reality was very different. Large stretches of forest appeared dry and barren, with many trees looking burnt. We could not determine whether the damage was caused by the summer heat, accidental fires, or deliberate burning, but the landscape felt sad and lifeless. The ride lacked the lush greenery we had expected.
We finally reached Muthathi at around 2:00 PM.
The Kaveri river flowed peacefully through the area, but our disappointment continued when we encountered an enormous crowd. A temple festival was taking place that week, attracting visitors from many surrounding regions. The place was overflowing with people. Finding a parking spot was difficult, and locating a clean place to sit was nearly impossible. The overcrowding quickly became frustrating.
We rode further into the area hoping to find a quieter spot, but the crowds seemed to be everywhere. Eventually, we decided to cross to the other side of the river. Since the water level was high, the only option was to take a coracle across. The coracle operators informed us that the festival activities were taking place on the opposite bank and that camping was not permitted there. Since we had no plans to camp, we crossed the river anyway. Although the opposite bank was less crowded, it was not particularly clean. While searching for a suitable place to have lunch, security personnel advised us not to eat in that area.
At that point, we had had enough.
We returned to where we had parked our bikes and decided to leave.
The ride back home
Fortunately, on our way back, we found a cleaner and quieter spot where we could finally sit down and enjoy the lunch we had packed earlier.
After lunch, we resumed our journey at around 3:00 PM and headed towards Kanakapura via the Sathanur Road. We stopped for tea at Kanakapura around 4:45 PM before continuing towards Bangalore. By 6:30 PM, we were back in Jayanagar, bringing the trip to an end.
Travel snapshot
Muthathi may not have lived up to our expectations that day, largely because of the festival crowds and the lack of peaceful spaces to enjoy the riverside. However, when I look back on the trip now, it is not the disappointment at Muthathi that I remember. What stays with me are the unforgettable moments at Kabbaladurga-the intimidating climb, the spectacular views, the fearless devotees, and the realization of just how much determination and faith can help people achieve.
One day, we promised ourselves, we would return to Kabbaladurga and complete the climb all the way to the top.
- Route Travelled: Onward: HSR Layout > Jayanagar > Hudson Circle > Mysore Road > Bidadi > Chennapattana > Kabbaladurga > Satanur > Muthathi Return: Muthathi > Satanur > Kanakpura > Banashankari > Jayanagar > HSR layout
- Total distance (To & Fro): 238 km
- Mileage (Bike): 60 km/l
- Fuel expense: 315 Rs
- Total expense: 794 Rs